a table topped with plates and bowls of food
Photo by Ben Iwara on Unsplash
9 min read

Introduction: A City Where the Sea Seasons Every Bite

Rejiche is one of those modest Tunisian coastal towns where the Mediterranean never quite leaves your line of sight—or your plate. Locals will tell you that the tides dictate the tempo of daily life, and nowhere is this more obvious than in the food. Whether you stumble upon an octopus-laden couscous shared at a family-run eatery or sip thick, cardamom-kissed coffee on a breezy terrace, each forkful feels tethered to the shoreline.

If you’re mapping out a broader stay and want a sense of how meals fit into the rhythm of sightseeing, start with this helpful travel itinerary in Rejiche. It’ll show you how the city’s compact scale means you can easily graze your way from breakfast bakery to sunset seafood grill without ever straying far from the water. Curious what to see between bites? Scroll through these write-ups on famous places in Rejiche and some hidden treasures in Rejiche. And if you’re still crafting your bucket list, the round-up of must-do’s in Rejiche will guarantee you’re never too far from an unforgettable dish—or view—during your first visit.

In this guide, we’ll roam from sunrise pastries to late-night mechouia sandwiches, spotlighting roughly a dozen beloved stops. Pack an appetite, lace up comfortable walking shoes, and keep room in your phone for food photos: Rejiche’s culinary map is compact yet densely flavored.


1. The Coastal Culinary Identity

Every coastal city claims its seafood is the freshest, but Rejiche’s argument is hard to beat: fishing skiffs dock mere minutes from the open-air fish auction near the northern pier. At dawn you’ll watch boats unload crates of pink prawns, shimmering sardines, and hefty grouper onto rough wooden palettes. From there, ingredients zip across the road to grill shacks and family kitchens; the turnover is so swift that you’ll sometimes recognize the same gull hovering overhead at sea and later perched beside your café table hoping for scraps.

What sets Rejiche apart is its unpretentiousness. Even “high-end” restaurants rarely hide fish beneath complicated sauces. Instead, a typical plate arrives drizzled with citron confit, a grassy splash of local olive oil, and a sprinkling of za’atar—or nothing more than sea salt and a charcoal kiss. The result is an unwavering confidence in raw product.

Traveler Tip: If you want to join the auction, arrive around 6:30 a.m. Bring small bills, and don’t be shy about pointing at what looks good; locals are accustomed to visitors and will help you haggle if you attempt a rudimentary “combien?” followed by a smile.


2. Sunrise Rituals: Bakeries and Café Corners

Begin your day the way lifelong Rejiche dwellers do—under the aroma of butter and orange-blossom water. The city’s medina quarter hosts a cluster of boulangeries where French influence merges effortlessly with Tunisian staples. La Pêche Dorée, tucked just off Boulevard de la Mer, is open by 5 a.m. and sells out of its pistachio-dusted croissants before most tourists wake. They also offer mlawi (a flaky semolina flatbread) folded around a drizzle of local honey. Pair that with a “café direct”—strong espresso served in a petite glass—and you’ll be fortified for a morning wander.

Across the street, Café des Flots has terrace seating overlooking bobbing fishing boats. Here, the signature order is qahwa arbi, a traditional spiced Arabic coffee scented with mahleb and occasionally rose water. Locals will dunk a strip of bambalouni, the airy Tunisian donut sprinkled with sugar, letting it soak up the bitter brew.

Traveler Tip: Many cafés operate a pay-first counter system. Ask for “ticket” (receipt) at the register, then hand it to the barista. It saves confusion when crowds surge after morning prayers.


3. Market Magic: Mid-Morning Street Bites

By 9 a.m., the covered market in the center of town is a sensory avalanche: pyramids of sun-ripe tomatoes, bundles of mint and cilantro releasing fresh fragrance, coop-raised chickens clucking as buyers debate weight. But the real star is the snack row along the market’s western wall.

• Couscous Cups at Chez Manel: For the equivalent of a few dinars, vendors hand over warm cups of couscous small enough to eat on the go. Today’s topping might be merlu (hake) simmered in tomato harissa broth or slivers of calamari tangled with peas.

• Brik Station: A middle-aged couple sets a shallow wok of oil atop a propane burner and assembles brik—paper-thin sheets of malsouka filled with egg, tuna, parsley, and capers. The trick is timing: politely request “rouh” (runny yolk) if you want the center slightly lava-like.

• Sfenj Cart: Fresh, yeasty fritters served plain or dipped in date syrup. Locals grab these as mid-morning fuel while continuing errands.

Traveler Tip: Vendors rarely carry change larger than 20-dinar notes. Break big bills at a grocery or bank first. And don’t rush; part of the enjoyment is watching the choreography of frying, stuffing, and sprinkling.


4. Lunchtime by the Waves: Casual Seafood Eateries

When the sun angles overhead, Rejiche’s shoreline cafés buzz with clinking plates. Perhaps the most beloved lunch stop is Les Embruns, a white-washed shack with plastic tables sunk directly into the sand. There’s no printed menu—only a chalkboard listing whatever was caught that morning.

House Specials:

  1. Grilled Dorade Royale: Butterflied, showered with oregano, seared over olive-wood charcoal. It arrives with a wedge of lemon and a ramekin of “meslalla,” a piquant olive relish.
  2. Octopus Ojja: Tender octopus pieces swim in tomato sauce thickened with eggs cracked in tableside, still bubbling when served. Scoop it up with torn khobz tabouna (wood-fired bread).
  3. Shrimps à la Kerkennah: A nod to nearby islands—shrimp marinated in garlic, cumin, and coriander seeds, then flash-fried.

If you prefer a slightly more polished setting, head to Le Cèdre Bleu, where arched windows frame the turquoise sea. Their fennel-studded fish couscous is ambrosial. Reserve ahead on weekends; locals celebrate birthdays here.

Traveler Tip: Tunisians traditionally linger at lunch. Flag your server only when you’re ready for “addaa” (the bill). And remember, tipping a modest 5–10% is appreciated though not compulsory.


5. Mid-Day Cool-Down: Juice Bars and Tea Terraces

Rejiche can feel blisteringly warm from May through September, so a pit-stop at one of the city’s “jus frais” stalls is non-negotiable.

• Oasis Vitamine: They pile blenders with whatever fruit is ripening that week: prickly pear, apricot, melon. The bestseller is citron-menthe frappé—tart lemon purée blitzed with mint leaves and crushed ice.

• Thé Saphir: Shift from sidewalk to rooftop. Up two flights of narrow stairs, this terrace teahouse catches a perpetual breeze. Order thé à la menthe served in delicate glass tumblers and sweetened with pine nuts floating on top. The view: terracotta roofs foregrounding an endless horizon of sea.

Traveler Tip: If you’re sensitive to tap water, request bottled ice cubes (“glace minérale”)—especially in the thick of summer.


6. Sweet Temptations: Pastries, Puddings, and Gelato

Afternoons in Rejiche evoke the sugary perfume of pastries. The city’s ethnic mélange—Berber, Arab, Andalusian, and French—manifests in a dessert roster that can feel dizzying.

  1. Zrayan Pâtisserie: Showcases cornes de gazelle (almond-filled crescents) perfumed with orange blossom. Ask for their limited-run pistachio variant, available only when Iranian nuts come in.

  2. Halwa Sidi Salem: Specializes in makkroud, diamond-shaped semolina cakes stuffed with date paste and fried before a dunk in honey. Get them warm—they taste like sticky sunshine.

  3. Gelateria Al Mare: Perfect if you need a cooler treat. Their fig-and-anise gelato nods to local orchards.

Traveler Tip: Many pastry shops price items by kilogram. If you’re sampling, simply say “assortiment pour deux,” and the attendant will build a mixed box.


7. Golden Hour Delights: Aperitifs and Tapas Tunisiennes

As the sky blazes pink, follow locals to Quai d’Écume, a boardwalk lined with casual bars. Tunisia’s Muslim-majority context means alcohol is available but not ubiquitous. Still, several establishments hold licenses and even craft their own date or fig “wine.”

• Bar Merzougui: Pair a chilled Cedratine spritzer (cedar-infused liqueur cut with soda) with a platter of kémia—small nibbles ranging from spicy potato salad to fried smelt.

• Tapas du Golfe: Inspired by Andalusian ties, they serve mini-brochettes of marinated swordfish alongside harissa aioli. Try the pickled octopus jars—salty, sour, and ideal with a crisp beer.

Traveler Tip: Order snacks when you request drinks; portions are sharable so one plate often feeds two. Sunset seats fill an hour before dusk, so arrive early or befriend a local to snag a table.


8. Dinner with a View: Signature Restaurants Worth the Splurge

Though Rejiche prides itself on unfussy cooking, a handful of chefs elevate local ingredients into artful plates.

• Restaurant L’Oursin Rose: Overlooking a rocky inlet, it features floor-to-ceiling windows and nautical décor. Begin with carpaccio of sea urchin resting on shaved fennel. Main course? Grouper roasted in a crust of hand-harvested sea salt, ceremoniously cracked tableside. Their sommelier pairs each dish with northern Tunisian wines rarely exported.

• Dar Zubaïda: Set in a renovated Ottoman-era mansion lit by lanterns. Here, the highlight is lamb shoulder slow-braised with quince, served beside saffron couscous flecked with chickpeas. Vegetarians aren’t neglected: try the pumpkin and caraway tajine, a silken stew redolent of cinnamon.

Traveler Tip: Dress codes are casual-elegant—think linen shirt and sandals—for men; sundress and shawl for women. Call ahead for dietary needs; kitchens happily omit harissa for milder palates if you ask.


9. After-Dark Cravings: Street Grills and Sandwich Carts

Once the formal dinners wind down, the nighttime eats ignite. Along Avenue Bourguiba, neon lights flicker above smoky carts.

Top Picks:

  1. Lablebi Express: Bowls of chickpea stew seasoned with cumin, garlic, and a swirl of harissa. Crack a soft-boiled egg on top, tear in hunks of baguette, and revel in warmth.
  2. Mechouia Mobile: A pushcart piled with coal-fired eggplant, tomatoes, and peppers. The vendor chops everything roughly, seasons with olive oil, squeezes in lemon, then stuffs it between rustic bread with tuna or merguez sausage.
  3. Kafteji Corner: The ultimate Tunisian fast food—fried peppers, squash, potatoes, and eggs diced together, tucked into bread. Ask for extra harissa if you crave heat.

Traveler Tip: Night stalls open around 9 p.m. and run until at least midnight. They’re safe but BYON (bring your own napkins) as stands rarely offer more than a roll of paper towel.


10. Insider Experiences: Cook with Locals & Foodie Day Trips

Want to deepen your culinary knowledge? Several home cooks, often grandmothers proud of ancient family recipes, have begun hosting classes. Through social media groups or your guesthouse, you can schedule a morning to shop the market together, then head to their courtyard kitchen. You’ll learn to stuff calamari with herbed barley or spin semolina by hand for fluffy couscous. The class usually culminates with a communal meal and, if you’re lucky, a parting jar of preserved lemons.

Beyond the city, half-day trips lead to olive groves where you can taste first-press oil directly from the spout. Harvest season (November–January) sees pop-up picnics among gnarled trees, featuring makroud fresh from portable fryers.

Traveler Tip: Always negotiate the price and length of the class or tour beforehand. Most hosts include transport if you’re within city limits; tipping is welcome, especially if the experience exceeds your expectations.


Conclusion

Rejiche may be smaller and quieter than Tunisia’s splashier resort cities, but its appetite for memorable food is anything but modest. From dawn’s pistachio croissants to midnight bowls of lablebi, you’ll sample a living spectrum of flavors that speak of sea winds, ancient trade routes, and familial love. Remember to pace yourself: the town invites lingering, conversation, and unhurried joy. Whether you came for surf or culture, you’ll leave with a palate tuned to the subtle salinity of the Mediterranean and the warmth of Rejiche’s kitchens. Bon voyage—and more importantly, bon appétit!

Discover Rejiche

Read more in our Rejiche 2025 Travel Guide.

Rejiche Travel Guide